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Retired foxhounds can make it as house hounds with the right training

By Polly Wilson
I have a habit of bringing home strays. Therefore, it should not have come as a surprise that I brought Benny home. Benny was clearly becoming fond of hanging about with the second field rather than hunting, and, although we all loved to have him with us, it was time for Benny to retire. He was one of the original pack members from when the Few Hounds Hunt became the Green Mountain Hounds. Aptly named, there had been only three couple regularly hunted by Elaine Ittleman, MFH and huntsman, at the inception of Few Hounds Hunt. Three years before his retirement, Benny was nose to the ground and in the game. As the last few seasons progressed, he slowed down. By the time Benny was actually retired, he was beyond ready. I called his name and he hopped into the truck. I told friends that he came with his golf shoes and a condo in Florida.

Benny is an example of a retired foxhound who was ready to move from the kennel to the hearth and he did so with ease. Since then, I have taken three other hounds, all with equally big personalities and each with a different take on retirement.

Last year, a hunt member who was considering retiring a hound from her hunt had asked Terry Hook, MFH, what he knew about re-homing a hound. Terry then referred her to me. It has occurred to me that fellow hunt members might (in secret) be calling me “the crazy hound lady.” After a couple of emails about what to expect from a hound in the house, she thanked me and sent a picture of her new family member. I began to wonder how often people take retired hounds home. Is it common practice with hunts in general? How successful is the practice of letting members take on hounds? So, I put out the question to followers of Foxhunters on Facebook and to the huntsmen I knew, and this is what I found.

WHEN THE TIME IS RIGHT
Kate Selby, huntsman for Green Mountain Hounds, says that she believes that it becomes clear when to retire a hound. “An older hound who is slowing down is one thing, but when they can’t physically keep up they can become a danger to themselves. Exhaustion, increasing lameness issues, and inability to recover quickly from a day out are all clear signs that hunting days are coming to an end.”

Ittleman has two retirees from her days as huntsman.   She would rather see a hound in work for as long as it enjoys the hunt.  When it is time to retire a hound, however, she prefers to see hounds go to a hunt member who understands what kennel life has been like and will understand the personality of a foxhound. Lorraine Groneau of Limestone Creek Hunt has retired out many hounds. “Some just do better to stay at the kennels and some have great second careers as house hounds,” Groneau says.  When Limestone Creek hounds are adopted, a formal agreement is signed by the huntsman, MFH and the new owner. Terms are clear that the new owner is responsible for the hound and will incur all expenses henceforth. For hounds who prefer the consistent life of a kennel, Lori lets them stay on and employs them to teach the puppies their manners. Some hunts have designated retirement kennels. The Iroquois Hunt has The Hound Welfare Fund, a non-profit run separately from the hunt, which allows their venerable retirees to continue their lives in the kennels. The Hound Welfare Fund works hard to raise money to support the retired hounds.

Deb Riley of Middlebrook Hounds is, whether by choice or by proxy, the staff for the retirement pack. Her farm, Finalea Farm, is aptly named for the hounds who get the pleasure of retiring there. She also confesses to keeping a couple of retired staff horses, and a few cats, too. 

Riley says, “First, you must know that foxhounds are the most grateful of all the dogs I have ever had the honor of taking care of ... or loving. They go day-to-day having the love and affection of one person — the huntsman. They return his love by hunting and working hard to find chase for him and the field of followers. They look at him with love and affection and then tiredly return to the kennel awaiting his next arrival. In the end, they transfer that love and affection — if only for a brief time — to the people that show them love until they leave us to go hunting with the ultimate huntsman above.”

THE HOUND IN THE SINK
Retiring a hound from its pack can be stressful. It’s a bit like what Eliza Doolittle went through in “My Fair Lady.” Until you witness it, you have no idea how refined a life house pets have in comparison to kenneled pack life. The good news is that, generally speaking, foxhounds are smart. They learn fast and they want to please. The bad news is that foxhounds like to run. They have a curiosity that makes great hunters, but can cause havoc when they decide to check out the new neighborhood. Hounds have a hard time figuring out what is okay and what is forbidden when it comes to countertops, tables, and other high places. Finding a hound in the sink is always a surprise. If you have other dogs, they may be stunned at how fast a hound can devour its own food and then grab its companions’ dinners as well. Finally, I would be remiss if I did not mention that house-training an older hound is tricky and should be the number one priority to maintain peace in the house. Once again, the good news is that they do learn fast with firm instruction.

It takes a bit of time and patience to retrain a hound. One key element to making the transition easier for everyone is making — and keeping — boundaries. If you love your white couch, then make that room off-limits. If you can’t get out for a walk for exercise, then fence in an area for your hound to move about. Expect holes.  Digging is what dogs do; hounds do it really well. I find a large dog crate creates harmony for all the occupants of my house, including the hound himself. It is a cozy place to den up.

It might be six months before you see the changes, but your hound will adapt. Or, as my friend and fellow hunter from Old North Bridge Hounds, Suzanne Adams, says, “I’ll never have another kind of dog but foxhounds. They are so devoted.”

As this season end approaches, you may notice a hound in your pack who has slowed down, and prefers to stay by the huntsman’s stirrup. Maybe the hound missed a few meets. This will be the hound that needs a retirement home. Step up and ask the huntsman or staff if there is a need for adoption. You will not be disappointed and neither will the hound.

Polly Wilson hunts with Green Mountain Hounds, where members call her “The Hound Lady.”

I am the very proud owner of two foxhounds, Corporal and Walden, and I help rescue foxhounds from shelters around the South. I rode with a mounted foxhunt in Virginia for eight years. Six of the hunt’s litters were born at my place. I adopted one of the hunt’s retiring hounds, Corporal.

My other foxhound, Walden, was the runt from one of their litters, and never hunted.

If you are considering adopting a foxhound, you will probably want to know about the breed, and also about some quirks specific to hounds that have hunted.  Not all hunting foxhounds hunt foxes with a mounted hunt—some are used for hunting foxes on foot, or coyotes, or, where it’s allowed, deer. What I have to say about hunting hounds comes from my experience hunting on horseback following a pack of formally trained hounds in the traditional organized sport you’ve seen pictures of.

Hounds can be wonderful companions, very affectionate and amusing. They are particularly emotional—it’s easy to hurt their feelings. Many are opinionated. They may be couch potatoes for extended periods of time, punctuated by bursts of energy. Until taught otherwise, they are natural counter surfers. I’ve been around when some miscreants “hunted” down a hunt’s Christmas feast and wiped it out!  Others I know ate entire lasagna that had been grabbed off the kitchen counter. They are also very hardy. I have had vets tell me that hounds can physically withstand medical conditions that would kill another breed of dog.

If hunting hounds are scared or unruly it is not because they have hunted. While a few hunting hounds are poorly socialized and may have been ignored or mistreated, most individual hunters and the majority of mounted foxhunts’ huntsmen love their hounds and take excellent care of them. The hunters and huntsmen who abuse their hounds are in the distinct minority.  In my experience of mounted hunts’ foxhounds, the dogs are personable and extremely well trained. And here in the mountains of rural Virginia I personally know several individual hunters who hunt several hounds, including foxhounds. Their dogs are in beautiful shape and very friendly.

Foxhounds are very attuned to people, as anyone who has worked and/or hunted with a foxhunting pack knows. The leader of the pack is the huntsman, who leads the hounds while out hunting and who gives the hounds their orders and provides discipline and direction using a series of voice commands and calls on the hunting horn.

Even the poorly socialized hounds that occasionally make their way into pet homes can usually be trained, with enough patience and discipline, and blossom as pets. Rescues and shelters will already have begun this process of socialization but it still requires fine-tuning when the dogs are adopted and enter a home.

When meeting a hound with an unknown temperament for the first time, be patient.  The hound will usually take some time learning to trust you. Just in case it has had an abusive past, don’t make any fast, threatening movements; don’t make any attempt to pat or touch the hound’s head or otherwise move at them from above. Some hounds are “head-shy,” meaning they aren’t used to being patted on the head, either because they were abused or it’s just a new experience. Squat down and let the hound approach you, avoid eye contact initially, and stick your hand out for the hound to sniff. Be extra-gentle and considerate of the hound. Observe how it reacts carefully, and try to understand why he or she is reacting the way it is and what experiences may have caused this.

Foxhounds should have exercise as often as possible. I run with my two foxhounds every day. I call them my pace cars and they are quite beautiful when they run. They also get exercise on our small farm. Exercise is very important for these dogs, who often run long distances while hunting—in my hunt hound’s case, 30 or more miles every day he hunted.

As far as retired hunting foxhounds go, I cannot stress it enough: Hounds must have respect for their owner (pack leader). Just like a child, they will not obey rules if they are not provided with discipline and structure. This takes consistency, of course, and sometimes some guts. With my retired hunting foxhound, a male who weighs 90 pounds, I had a confrontation early on. He tested my resolve. In response, I got him down on his side and sat on him. I stayed alert for any attempt to bite and removed the threat, closing his mouth tightly, and continued sitting on him until he gave in. Now he knows

There are certainly other ways to reinforce rules, which any knowledgeable shelter director or good dog trainer would know, but this was the method I used. I had seen the director of the shelter I volunteer at use it and it worked for her. To make sure that he remembers that I am boss, I have him wait for about 30 seconds every night before I allow him to go up the stairs to his crate for the night. I convey the message with a foxhunting voice command, “Get behind,” then I say “okay” and up he goes. In foxhunting, this is one of the voice commands that the huntsman uses to teach the hound that the huntsman is the leader.

Neither of my foxhounds has ever threatened to bite—though they have growled a few times—nor have I ever known of any foxhounds actually biting someone. The director of the animal shelter where I volunteer has advised me not to reprimand any dog for growling, because a growling dog is warning you before biting, and you don’t want it to skip that step when it is scared or displeased.

A word on hunting commands for foxhounds. The huntsman of the hunt that I rode with gave commands in a gruff, strong voice. He sometimes gave them rather arbitrarily just to reinforce discipline and the pecking order of the pack. The actual words used vary among huntsmen, but the ones our huntsman used include:

Leave it.  This tells the hound to stop investigating whatever he is interested in at the moment, usually something he is sniffing or trying to pick up with his mouth. 

Get behind. (Given while pushing your body toward the hound.) This tells the hound to step back (from the gate, stairs, door, etc.), and let the huntsman lead the way.

Hold back.  This tells the hound to stop, or wait for the huntsman to catch up when the dog is out front.

Kennel up. This tells the hound to get in its crate, a vehicle, or other enclosed space.

Foxhounds do well with another dog/pack member who will show the hound the ropes in his or her new home and provide a good role model. As puppies, hounds are taught how to hunt with the pack by being coupled (their collars are connected with a link between them) to a more experienced hound. New hound owners can take advantage of this. The new foxhound in the family will quite naturally follow the cues from the dogs currently in the household. Unfortunately, the foxhound will be just as eager to imitate the existing pack’s bad habits as their good habits, so watch closely and intervene before the foxhound mimics your long-time dogs’ annoying quirks!

If your new foxhound is not yet house trained, a long-time resident can make that task almost automatic. I don’t even remember house-training either of my foxhounds. They each joined our existing pack and learned very quickly. They are naturally clean in their home environment and this helps in their training. My retired hunting foxhound was almost instantaneously crate-trained, too. Like so many dogs, he loves the close, cozy, safe environment of a crate.

Fences are a necessity. Most hounds will leave any non-fenced area, wandering off, chasing a deer, or picking up another line of scent that extends out beyond the yard. I have an invisible fence which both of my hounds respect. I do check on them often, even with them behind this fence. I don’t want one of them stolen by a deer hunter, especially during hunting season. And I never leave them in the fenced area all day while I am occupied inside, which is a recipe for disaster. Also, invisible fences don’t keep out wild animals or neighbors’ pets.

I also will not let my retired foxhound run loose, for his own safety. I would worry about him getting hit on the road, lost, or shot. We live in a rural area where it is legal to shoot any dog molesting livestock. And there’s always the chance that some no-good could take a shot illegally

Leashes are a must. If my retired foxhound gets on a line of scent while we’re running I stop running immediately. He’s quite large so I have had instances where I have had to let go of the leash because I am going to have a crash or I’ve already tumbled to the ground. I’ve learned to hold on tight, walk, and sometimes a command in a gruff, loud voice will slow the hound down or break him or her off the scent. My foxhound responds to the words, “leave it,” because if he started chasing deer out hunting that’s what he heard. And it works!

Speaking of leashes, a really handy training technique using one is called “umbilical cord” training. A new foxhound owner brings the hound home and keeps the leash on the hound and hooked to the owner himself or herself or, at a minimum within grabbing range. This should be done for a week or so. It allows the owner to correct the hound immediately when the hound does something wrong.

And a word on cats. It has been my experience and that of our county shelter director that not all hounds will chase and/or harm or kill cats. Here, again, the owner must be the boss. The owner needs to show the hound that the cat belongs to the owner; the cat is the owner’s “possession.” The leash worn by the hound for a while after it’s been brought to its new home (and when it is first introduced to the cat) can be grabbed quickly and used to “check” him or her (a sudden, short tug, not dragging the dog away from the cat). Voice is very important here—gruff, loud, insistent. For a good while, watch the situation until you trust there is a decent chance that a relative peace between the animals exists.

My foxhounds are the pride and joy of my life. I fell in love with the breed when I was foxhunting and continue to rescue foxhounds from kill shelters in the South and to find homes for foxhounds retiring from my previous foxhunt. Adopting a foxhound has been one of my life’s most rewarding experiences. No doubt it could be the same for anyone adopting one of these wonderful creatures.

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By Emily Plishner

It’s pretty hard to tell the difference between Treeing Walker coonhounds and foxhounds. Most of the differences are behavioral rather than visibly structural, and the behavioral differences are most evident in a hunting setting.

Both American foxhounds and coonhounds had the same ancestors--hounds brought from Europe to the Americas in colonial days. In Europe, desirable game did not climb trees to get away from hounds. Hounds were mostly used to chase deer and foxes. In the Americas, gray foxes, raccoons, opossums, black bears, bobcats, and mountain lions all climb trees when they want to get away from hounds, so American hunters selectively bred those hounds that looked for scent on trees and barked at treed game, holding it there for the hunter.

The offspring of this selective breeding became the coonhound breeds. The tri-colored coonhounds, the ones that look oversized beagles, were separated out as an individual breed, Treeing Walker Coonhounds, in the 1940’s. Approximately half of all purebred coonhounds in the United States are Treeing Walkers, with the other half divided between the remaining five or six breeds.  

Hounds that were used primarily to hunt red foxes, coyotes or deer did not need to check tree trunks for scent, so they remained foxhounds (in less formal circles, they are sometimes referred to as “running” as opposed to “treeing” hounds) even though some of them do tree game that will tree. To confuse matters further, there are some hunters that use purebred coonhounds to hunt game that will not tree, like coyotes. There are a lot more coonhounds than foxhounds in shelters, especially in places where there isn't a big coyote problem.

Within the foxhound breeds, there are several different named strains, including the running Walker hounds. A running Walker looks just like a Treeing Walker, but it generally has a slightly leaner and racier build (imagine a little greyhound mixed in), making it fast on the ground.

The formal mounted foxhunts generally use a sturdier looking hound that is heavier than a typical coonhound with slightly shorter ears. Two such strains are the American and the English Foxhounds. Foxhounds trained to hunt in large packs, like those that hunt with the mounted hunts, are more deferential and are less likely to be terribly independent. 

The hunting dog registries generally recognize two breeds of foxhound (American and English) and six or seven breeds of coonhound (black and tan, bluetick, English, leopard, Plott, redbone, and treeing Walker). Some hunters breed "grade" hounds that are not registered, and may be crosses between the different coonhound and foxhound breeds, or even have a little bloodhound mixed in. This is particularly common among big game (black bears and mountain lions) hunters out west.

Within the individual breeds, there are a number of "strains" or "bloodlines" that you wouldn't be able to tell apart without seeing their pedigrees.

When it comes to coat color, very few treeing Walker coonhounds are almost entirely white, although there are some, particularly those in the Clover bloodline. In general, a dog that is almost entirely white, with just a little sprinkling of other colors, is most likely a foxhound. There was an old time French breed of hound called a porcelaine that was almost entirely white. However, dogs of many breeds with predominantly white coats may have a genetic tendency to deafness, so they are not necessarily the best breeding stock.

Coonhounds with a black saddle on their back are highly prized in show circles. Coonhounds with almost no white—mostly brown legs and black saddlebacks--are known as “high tans.” This color pattern is somewhat more common in coonhounds than foxhounds, but not all that common in either.

Coonhounds that have been bred to look up trees often throw their heads way back when they bay, and are very given to putting their front paws up on anything handy—a tree with game in it, a kitchen counter, some stranger they are greeting effusively. This is bred-in behavior, but can be modified.  A pet coonhound can and should be trained to stay off the kitchen counter and not jump on strangers.

I have a lot of experience with hounds of all kinds, and even I have trouble recognizing the difference between coonhounds and foxhounds without seeing their papers or watching them work.

At Coonhound Companions, we're working hard to find pet homes for the failed hunters. In the right home, where their loud voices are appreciated and their affectionate loyal natures are reciprocated, they are extremely good pets.

The fox hunter's horn has echoed through the Virginia countryside since colonial days, calling together hunters on horseback and long-eared hounds in pursuit of the poultry-snatching fox. George Washington, the first President of the United States, eagerly participated in the sport, which combined horsemanship, the music of skilled dogs, and an exhilarating gallivant through miles of forest and farmland. The same sport continues to attract adherents to the present day, although in contemporary hunts, foxes are seldom harmed.

The hounds form an enthusiastic and noisy pack and love what they do. Many of today’s foxhounds trace their ancestry to the famous pack developed by President Washington. These dogs are very good at what they do in the field, but as they get older, they slow down and begin having trouble keeping up with the pack. They are still very social with other dogs and people, but they are better suited for pedestrian companionship than keeping up with horses and foxes. They prefer a life filled with praise and company to getting left behind. That makes them great potential pets.

A good hunting hound must be very social with other dogs or he couldn’t hunt in a huge, dense, excited pack. The social skills developed in the hunting pack carry over to a “family pack”, and these dogs do well with children as well as other dogs. The urge to please humans is necessary in their profession, and just as desirable in a pet. By the time they are ready to retire, the high energy level of a hound puppy has mellowed and they are just happy to be with you. Like many working breeds, foxhounds have fewer health problems than breeds bred primarily for show or to meet pet market demands, and even older dogs can have many healthy years ahead.

This situation is very similar to the plight of racing Greyhounds some years ago, and today many ex-racing Greyhounds find themselves in wonderful retirement homes with families who consider them the best couch potatoes ever. It’s time for the same to happen to hunting hounds.

You can read about successful adoptions of foxhounds from a hunt at:

http://articles.philly.com/2004-08-17/news/25392204_1_foxhounds-rescue-group-hunting-dogs

To see hunting foxhounds at work, click on:

http://www.klmimages.com/foxhunting